Oral and topical melatonin in human studies
In a 2017 study on the impact of melatonin treatment on the skin of former smokers, Sagan et al. assessed oxidative damage to membrane lipids in blood serum and in epidermis exfoliated during microdermabrasion (at baseline, 2 weeks after, and 4 weeks after treatment) in postmenopausal women. Never smokers (n = 44) and former smokers (n = 46) were divided into control, melatonin topical, antioxidant topical, and melatonin oral treatment groups. The investigators found that after only 2 weeks, melatonin oral treatment significantly reversed the elevated serum lipid peroxidation in former smokers. Oral melatonin increased elasticity, moisture, and sebum levels after 4 weeks of treatment and topical melatonin increased sebum level. They concluded that the use of exogenous melatonin reverses the effects of oxidative damage to membrane lipids and ameliorates cutaneous biophysical traits in postmenopausal women who once smoked. The researchers added that melatonin use for all former smokers is warranted and that topically applied melatonin merits consideration for improving the effects of facial microdermabrasion.14
In a systematic literature review in 2017, Scheuer identified 20 studies (4 human and 16 experimental) indicating that melatonin exerts a protective effect against artificial UV-induced erythema when applied pre-exposure.7 Also that year, Scheuer and colleagues conducted randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled work demonstrating that topical melatonin (12.5%) significantly reduced erythema resulting from natural sunlight, and in a separate randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled crossover study that the same concentration of a full body application of melatonin exhibited no significant impact on cognition and should be considered safe for dermal application.7 Scheuer added that additional longitudinal research is needed to ascertain effects of topical melatonin usage over time.
Early in 2018, Milani and Sparavigna reported on a randomized, split-face, assessor-blinded, prospective 3-month study of 22 women (mean age 55 years) with moderate to severe facial skin aging; the study was designed to test the efficacy of melatonin-based day and night creams. All of the women completed the proof-of-concept trial in which crow’s feet were found to be significantly diminished on the sides of the face treated with the creams compared with the nontreated skin.
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Both well-tolerated melatonin formulations were associated with significant improvements in surface microrelief, skin profilometry, tonicity, and dryness. With marked enhancement of skin hydration and reduction of roughness noted, the investigators concluded that their results supported the notion that the tested melatonin topical formulations yielded antiaging effects.4
Conclusion
The majority of research on the potent hormone melatonin over nearly the last quarter century indicates that this dynamic substance provides multifaceted benefits in performing several biological functions. Topical melatonin is available over the counter. Its expanded use in skin care warrants greater attention as we learn more about this versatile endogenous substance.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur who practices in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote two textbooks: “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2014), and a New York Times Best Sellers book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Evolus, Galderma, and Revance. She is the founder and CEO of Skin Type Solutions Franchise Systems LLC. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.