BOSTON – Untinted chemical sunscreens on the market are not sufficient to protect the skin from the effects of visible light, complicating sun protection efforts for patients with melasma and other conditions aggravated by sun exposure, according to Henry W. Lim, MD.
A , Dr. Lim, former chair of the department of dermatology at Henry Ford Health, Detroit, said at the annual meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology. Tinted sunscreens contain iron oxides; some also contain pigmentary titanium dioxide.
Dr. Henry W. Lim
“Black, red, and yellow iron oxide all reflect visible light,” he added, noting that currently, there are no regulations as to how tinted sunscreens are marketed, making it difficult for practicing clinicians to advise patients about what products to choose. However, he said, “unlike ‘SPF’ and ‘broad spectrum’ labeling, there is no specific guidance on tinted sunscreens. “ ‘Universal’ shade is a good start but might not be ideal for users with very fair or deep skin tones,” he noted.
In December 2021, a guide to tinted sunscreens, written by Dr. Lim and colleagues, was published, recommending that consumers choose a product that contains iron oxides, is labeled as broad spectrum, and has an SPF of at least 30.
A comprehensive list of 54 tinted sunscreens with an SPF of 30 or greater that contain iron oxide is also available . The authors of the guide contributed to this resource, which lists sunscreens by average price per ounce.
At the meeting, Dr. Lim highlighted tinted sunscreens that cost about $20 or less per ounce. They include Supergoop 100% Mineral CC Cream (SPF 50); Bare Republic Mineral Tinted Face Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 30); CeraVe Hydrating Sunscreen with Sheer Tint (SPF 30); Tizo Ultra Zinc Body & Face Sunscreen (SPF 40); Vichy Capital Soleil Tinted Face Mineral Sunscreen (SPF 60); EltaMD UV Elements Tinted (SPF 44); La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra-Light Tinted Mineral (SPF 50), SkinMedica Essential Defense Mineral Shield (SPF 32), ISDIN Eryfotona Ageless Ultralight Tinted Mineral Sunscreen (SPF 50), and SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense (SPF 50).
Sunscreens with antioxidants
Sunscreens with biologically active antioxidants may be another option for patients with melasma. A proof-of-concept study that Dr. Lim and colleagues conducted in 20 patients found that application of a blend of topical antioxidants (2%) was associated with less erythema at the application sites among those with skin phototypes I-III and less pigmentation at the application sites among those with skin phototypes IV-VI after exposure to visible light and UVA-1, compared with controls.
Certain antioxidants have been added to sunscreens currently on the market, including niacinamide (vitamin B3), licochalcone A, carotenoids (beta-carotene), vitamin E, vitamin C, glycyrrhetinic acid, and diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate.
A recently published paper on the role of antioxidants and free radical quenchers in protecting skin from visible light referred to unpublished data from Dr. Lim (the first author) and colleagues, which demonstrated a significant reduction in visual light–induced hyperpigmentation on skin with sunscreen that contained the antioxidants vitamin E, vitamin C, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, licochalcone A, and a glycyrrhetinic acid, compared with sunscreen that had no antioxidants.